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Write for me how to change paper size in notepad do my capstone real estate services inc austin the self managing company hello this is James from edge robots Lakota UK today this is part 2 of my 3d printed arc reactor project so here's the arc reactor model that I did I designed this in 1/3 3d design from Autodesk which is free software you can download absolutely nothing I did a tutorial in the last part about how I created all these pieces but basically there are several pieces here which you're going to be 3d printed now this piece floating off to the right hand side fits in each one of these indented parts here so they can align properly and that's where the wire gets wrapped around and their various other pieces that all fit onto a chassis and the design has been optimized for 3d printing so it's not movie accurate but most of the pieces are there and it's characteristic of the arc reactor from the first movie and various clear parts so we can have an LED in the base and you know various parts that are printed separately and those get added on so we're going to print all the parts in different color plastic including the clear for the clear parts if you want to see more pictures of this and eventually I will make the STL files available for download you can go to my website the link is in the description for this video so the 3d printer I'm using is a lulzbot io 101 printer and this was pre assembled from long spots so I came shipped all ready to go unfortunately they don't make that model anymore but basically it's based on a mendelmax design so there's various other 3d printers you could buy I've got various plastics to printing and the clear parts I'm printing in clear PLA so they won't be completely clear by the time it's Princes but they'll be pretty good I also have three rolls of ABS err black silver and gold so I'll be printing the parts straight in those colors so I don't have to paint them or color them afterwards so here are all my 3d printed parts there's the chassis the main base part the gold and the black ring for the top various saddles and the diffuser which fits just in there and I've got two rings here while I printed solid and one I printed with the holes in the bottom and a channel for the LEDs so that fits on there quite nicely all the pages appear to fit together and I should also have the two back rings which fit onto the base part so in terms of lighting I obviously left a space in there to put an LED cluster of some sort I actually settled on these ones which are three volt LEDs they're 1 watt LEDs run off a couple of triple a's and those are extremely bright too bright to look straight at and that diffuses quite well into there I'm kind of glad I did this design with the LED holes in there because it doesn't really light up the outside ring at all and so I've got a load of white LEDs to installing that ring so before I put the other parts on I'm going to work on fitting that led actually inside and running the wires out and I'm also gonna drill a couple of holes in each side so I can run a wire up each side which is going to go up to the ring of LEDs in the top now before I put this LED in here I've made a couple of holes in the side already I need to put on one of the Rings so the wires go below so one of these rings has got a slight taper on the inside which goes higher up and one of these rings is flat so I'm just going to fit that on all the way around order the 3d printed parts have slight ridges on so most of the PC snap together now so there we are we've got the LED mounted we've got wires coming out sand to run up to the ring which I've used some copper wire it's actually covered with insulation that you have to burn off with the soldiering iron so when calls any shorts and it looks sort of characteristic of the art reactor so there's that and if we pop this diffuser on that works quite well so now let's put the other pieces on right let's add the other parts so I've got this ring that goes in here so I should snap on all the way around and if it's into a specific place where there's piece piece in the chassis there that fits exactly into so should be - just push all those in a little bit and snap it on all the way around there we go and then we can add the gold piece which just fits in there and then finally the black piece that fits on top and most of these pieces snap together quite well I probably will put some glue in let's just turn that LED on again so you're looking good so far so here's the main ring with the holes in and I've got these gray saddles as well so they fit onto each segment as I described in the CAD video the previous video they should all eventually click into place there we go so there's 10 of those quite a tight fit obviously that's where the white gets wrapped around so each one will have a copper wire wrapped around all the way around the bottom and below each one is an LED so I need to fit all these LEDs in all the way around now I've position the LEDs so they're directly below the saddles so when we look at it from the top we're going just get a bright spot in each section it should hopefully diffuse along the plastic from behind these that's the plan anyway so let me get all those saddles on and we'll stick a really DS in and then start soldiering them together in one big ring so all my saddles are installed and I've put the LEDs behind now I'm doing is bending the wires down to me the next one and soldiering them round and ring and with all the shorter legs which are negative in the middle so we should be R to just put a dab of solder on each one and continue all the way around all where ladies have been soldered and I just temporarily attached these wires for testing so we can see that lights up quite well and just turn off this big light and that seems to be seems to do the job quite well so now we need to wrap some copper wire around each of those and we'll see how that goes so I'm getting there with wrapping the wire around so I'm using this wire bolts on eBay for doing jewelry making and stuff it's copper wire but it's like a plastic or enamel coated which means it doesn't short out the LEDs and the whole thing still works even though this wire is touching the LED leads so I just got three more to do I found I need 60 to 70 centimeter long piece of wire to wrap around each one of these a number of times obviously if it was thicker wire I would need less so there's my main coil fully wound I'm starting to put these links on here which has sold it between the corners and they have to be one from each corner so tin around the outside and then there's ten around the inside as well so the way I'm doing that is just scraping the coating of this wire off with a file I'm thinning the piece with solder and then soldiering the links so I get some sold as a take to the corners and then cutting a piece of this silver wire and soldiering that all the way around so I continue to do that so I finally got all my wire links done on the inner and outer all 20 of them this of course fits quite nicely onto here but obviously I need this outer linked or outer ring to light up so I left these two wise if you remember at the beginning that one with the kinking is the positive and that one is the negative so what I need to do is attach those so the two rings that I left with the LED leads so we just need to solder those on and then we should be complete so here it is all together the led I put in the base is rather more yellow than the ones in the Rings but I quite like the look of it I'll be putting some high quality pictures on the website you can find a link in the description to this video at some point I will make the STL files available for download if you'd like to download one and print it yourself do my capstone llc greenville sc Tisch School of the Arts.