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Write for me enterprise risk management consulting do my capstone park toboggan opening times budapest szondi utca postal reporter so we're going to change the front bearing on a 95 ford windstar this is a front-wheel drive Ford this wheel bearing change is going to be a pressed bearing so you could use this method on most press bearing cars with the car on the ground you're going to take the axle nut and loosen it using a 30 millimeter socket so now now that's loose now we can lift the car make sure you have the back wheels chopped off and now we'll take the tire off we'll put the tire into the vehicle for even more protection we're going to end up wanting to get in here so we're not take the brake the whole brake system off caliper and bracket to get to to get the caliper off the whole bracket and everything so you want this whole thing to come off as a unit there's a bolt here which you can see caliper and then there's a bolt at the bottom right there I suggest using a little bit of PB Blaster or liquid wrench on all these bolts that get me take it off because they're going to be hard to take off especially if they have been touched before the caliper bolts are a 15 millimeter breaker bar so now the bottom one is broke time to get to the top one now once you start finishing the bottom bolt unscrewing the bottom bolt and you pull it out the whole assembly here is going to want to fall off okay so now you have your whole assembly off here which makes everything really easy now we're going to hang it I'm just hanging that like that and I want to make sure that this brake line isn't bent or kinked or anything you don't want to damage that now we can take off the rotor we're going to get the axle nut off the rest of the way and that's your Exel there's going to be a little washer right here gently take out so we turn the tire so you can get access to the lower control arm here there's the ball joint that connects the lower control arm and we want to take that off so that we could take the axle off use the breaker bar again there we go this is an 18 millimeter ratchet there's a bolt on this side as well so you need to hold on to this bolt as you spin that one so this is going to be easier done with the air gun bolt came out yep I wedged a screwdriver in here to open up this gap with you know you normally close it down with that that bolt and then I just used the crowbar up against the frame right here and push down and now that's off now we're going to pull the axle out so we got the axle out of the way we're disconnected from the ball joint on the bottom control arm now we're going to take off the tie rod so at this point we're going to go take the castle nut off so we have to get the pin out of here pull that through using an 18 millimeter comes right off now we take a hammer pop that off there's the next bolt that we're going to get to it's going to take off the this knuckle from the strut we're going to get the ABS sensor cable out of the way this is an 8 millimeter there you go that the strut bolt is a 21 millimeter so we're gonna want to remove the ABS sensor and I just push it with your thumb don't hit this don't do anything to break this these are kind of expensive I tied the axle out of the way so that it gives us more room to try to shimmy this out okay the whole hub is off now we could get to the the bearing in here pop it out put the new one on so we're going to take off this C clamp or split ring or whatever it's called there's a split ring in here just use the pliers you go so that's out I got the 30 millimeter ratchet to pop off this part first so I'm going to hit it with a hammer okay now this is out so there's a lip right in here you see where the bearing is you find the right size tool the right size bearing press you put it in drop the bolt in and then you find the right size the bottom piece which fits on the outside of the bearing like so plate on top washer screw this down so get your large socket you want to tighten this baby down okay finally the bearing has been completely pressed out I'm gonna add some new grease not a lot just enough to help the new bearings slide in just a little bit not a lot this side fits in better so then we're gonna have all our bearing press kits you see this fits perfectly on the bearing and show you real quick so that it sits on the outside edge so when it presses it presses on the whole bearing so you don't crimp anything you don't mess anything up that's what you want to make sure you have so that's going to sit like that so after you get it in there a little bit I have enough with the red to that on and then put the big bolt on and this just slowly presses okay so there it's getting hard to turn tighten it down you have to go too crazy but I want to be snug we don't want damage to baring so we look here and that little c-clamp thing that goes that's going to fit in there see ring is going to fit perfectly and then over here we can see that this fits very nicely as well so the bearing is pressed now we're going to press the hub on the spindle it's going to fit in the knuckle in the bearing like that so we're going to press that way and add just a tad of grease on here so here's our little C clamp that's going to go in here there's just a little groove that fits into just like that and that's in had to get a new bearing press piece that fits this and we're actually going to hammer this in lightly just like that now just tighten this down same way we did the press the bearing you know fall look at that so here's how far you'll tighten it you want to barely be able to get a flathead screwdriver in here now you just do everything in the reverse order to put this back on which I will show you if you want to watch it if not then you know how to press a bearing so let's do everything in the reverse order and get this wheel back on strut is in so with the strut on we're going to get the axle back in okay so that's locked in because you could turn this and it turns that so the spindles are lining up so let's get the lower ball joint in right now slide that in and tighten it down now we're not going to tighten all the way we're going to just tighten it so it's snug and then we'll torque it later after we get the other bolts in so now let's get the tie rod in here that should slide right in just like that 18 millimeters again get snug down there good this one's pretty simple it's a threaded hole get the strut bolt in now everything's in let's torque everything I'm going to do the castle nut on the tie rod first so I set the 46 and you tighten until it clicks just like that when it clicks once you do it again and then that's tight enough remember that you have that cotter pin and then open the cotter pin around the nut like that this ball joint is 52 foot-pounds of torque good and then now we want to set the strut bolt to a hundred foot-pounds of torque put your rotor back up quick helper good the cover should slide on like that and then you get your bolt top one in bottom one in number the top one and then snug the bottom one and tighten good now is a good time to take your sensor and put it back right there get on the good side of the pull off now the last thing put on is this washer which goes on like that and then your hair bolt this gets torqued to two hundred foot-pounds so I'm going to just tighten this so that's really tight on here that's not even 150 foot pounds yet you just want to make sure that that's tight so you could put the tire on you just want to tighten these up and now we're going to torque it 200 ah now go for a nice easy ride and make sure everything's good and you're done you just change the wheel bearing like the video if it helped out and subscribe if you want to see more how-to videos college option capstone baruch for money Congregation of the Mission.