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Capstone photography blessing of the fleet capstone coffee table for money write my dissertation introduction on criminal offense as soon as possible this is my property in Lenoir North Carolina where I'm going to replace this carpet the right office is the one that I'm going to be working on I'm making this video because I couldn't find anything online that went into any kind of detail on how to do a job like this so maybe this will help you this project will be gluing commercial grade carpet low pile carpet to concrete this is a 13 by 24 office that I'll be gluing the carpet to the concrete the previous tenant didn't take very good care of this carpet as you see here the carpet has been cut into long strips and rolled up and here is the new carpet you'll need help with a big piece that's heavy now I've cut this carpet up to even smaller pieces where I can take it out with the trash online I've seen many videos on how to remove carpet glue I think using ball and water would be the best option to soften this glue up and remove it so you wouldn't take solvents and to actually drive it into the concrete making things worse I decided to see how compatible this new glue that I'm using is going to be with the old glue on the floor since there was very little left and it wouldn't cause any ridges or any problems I glued a piece of scrap carpet to see how well it would hold up and after drying for 24 hours it held real well so I'm not going to worry about the old residue what I'm going to do is take a straight hoe and scrape it real good and vacuum it real good and then I'm going to lay the new glue down on the old here I have the floor all cleaned and vacuumed and ready to glue the new carpet down you'll have to be in this carpet some to get it in the building but try to avoid any severe creases in it and here you see I've got it laid out ready to start making some cuts this shows the factory cut edge which worked out real good so we'll have to cut that one end making the cuts in the corners is going to be the very hardest thing to do and you must take your time and do successive v-notch cuts into the corner a little at a time till you get that worked into the corner if you make a mistake it's probably going to be in these core so you have to take your time and cut just a little bit at a time because it will deceive you if you will cut this carpet from the backside it is much easier to cut that way either with a hooked knife or straight blade utility knife I have undercut this door molding with a Japanese trim so that you'll see in a few seconds better to do that and try to cut the carpet around it okay here is the Japanese trim saw works real good real flexible however you could use a hacksaw blade with a rag wrapped around it would probably work just as well this carpet retaining strip transition strip is screwed down to the concrete using three screws with plastic anchors you can see here where I've also undercut this doorframe here's a free plug for gloves I got this Henry 6:63 outdoor carpet adhesive from Lowe's and followed the instructions and the amounts that it recommended worked out just fine the trowel that recommended worked out just fine so this bonded to the old adhesive with no problem at all this drywall knife could be used in place of a straight hoe if you need to you can clamp this to a broomstick and use it to scrape your floor buy more glue than you think you'll need because you can always take the unused unopened portions back and it's better to have more than you need rather than to be caught in the middle of this job and run out of the teasing this glue can be cleaned up with water unless you let it harden and then it takes mineral spirits to clean everything up this trowel is a 3/32 by 1/8 by 1/8 and that was close as I could find it is also from Lowe's here's the two utility knives I used I actually prefer the one on the left and used it the most here I'm getting ready to cut around the transition strip the retaining strip you will need to cut the excess carpet away and to do that just fold it over gently and cut through it with a utility knife now as you see here with this gentle fold I don't have to worry about hitting the carpet that's laying down on or trim it to leave about two inches above the floor line here I've cut the carpet to fit into the transition strip but I haven't been it down yet bending the edge of this retaining strip over the carpet will be one of the last things you do take your time in doing this you have to get it on the money and what I'm doing here is using my knife my putty knife to push that carpet down into the very edge of the floor very tightly into the corner and then I cut about four inches at a time with that utility knife I use one of these Stanley quick-change utility knives it works real good and I bought a pack of 100 blades I use the blade about every two to three feet cutting against that concrete will dull that blade very quickly now that I have the carpet all cut and laid in place I'm cleaning up getting all the scraps out of the way rather than trying to roll that carpet up half of the room I was afraid to try that because that carpet fits so tight that that roll would bind against the wall so I made some s curves here with it folded it in two S's then you can push that s you can push it forward over the half of the room that you're going to be gluing practice with this before you do it to make sure that you are in control of that moving this carpet in place is a two-person job I have pulled this carpet back and folded it into an S configuration now I'm getting ready to put the glue down of course don't do a Three Stooges move here and glue yourself into a corner work towards the doorway but this went fairly quickly you have 70 minutes in order to work without it easy here we use the lid of the adhesive container to wipe the trowel off every now and then in case it got some lint on it make sure to trowel this out evenly don't leave any puddles when the carpet is all glued in place both sides then you can bend your transition strip down with a rubber mallet or a hammer and a block of wood rolling this carpet the roller was recommended but I just went all over it stepping on it just making sure it's pressed down good in the glue then I went over it again walking all over the carpet about an hour and a half later again to press it down good let the carpet dry for about 24 hours and then go back around the whole room with scissors or utility knife and trim away your fluff and your threads very carefully don't pull these threads cut them I like going around this carpet with GE 100% pure silicone caulk it gives a better neater appearance and it keeps the carpet from fraying and here you see that I've cut the tip of the caulking gun to where I get about a quarter inch bead I made a mark on this tip of this caulking tube so I would know that I would always have it in the correct position to caulk you could probably use caulk to cover up to about a half an inch if you didn't cut that carpet very accurately or you could go back over and use baseboard molding which I didn't use if you make a mistake with this caulk do not try to clean it up at the time wait till it hardens then go back over it and cut that strip out you'll make a mess if you try to do it before it hardens and here is the 100% pure silicone caulk and the gun and here you see I've laid a bit of caulk against the wall it turned out real good I'm going to paint this wall heater with rust-oleum primer and then spray it with gray to match the room for a beginner like me it's much better just to remove this heater it's not that much trouble to remove it to where I don't have to work around it now you see the heater is installed back in place I hope you've enjoyed this little how-to video this project went real good I made no mistakes on it so if I can do it you can do it good luck capstone case 3 spatial technology inc Downtown Brooklyn campus.